A canoe trip down the Orange River is a five star journey through a barren landscape too beautiful to describe. Jeremy Jowell went along to test the waters.
It's a lazy warm day in the Richtersveld and the mood on the river is relaxed. The only sound that breaks the silence is the gentle lapping of paddles as they blade smoothly through the serene water. A goliath heron glides gracefully above. All around us, the scenery is astounding. Brown barren mountains and wide-open space flank the placid Orange River as we drift along in peace.
Suddenly the reverie is broken as I hear the roar of an approaching rapid. 'Life jackets, life jackets!,' goes up the cry from ahead. Our Mohawk canoe cruises down Rollercoaster Rapid, splashing and bumping into a few invisible rocks below the churning surface. Water flies everywhere but despite a few dicey moments, we emerge intact and afloat.
A canoe trip down the Orange River is something that everybody should experience at least once in their life. With gentle rapids and long stretches of tranquil water, this is an adventure in which everyone from seven to seventy can take part. From Cape Town to the Namibian border, it's a leisurely drive through the stunning scenery of the Western Cape and Namaqualand.
Then just 15 kilometres to Provenance base camp on the banks of the river. The next morning I'm up before dawn and climb to a nearby hilltop to watch the Orange turn into a twisting path of gold. After breakfast, Neville our guide gives us instructions for the trip. 'The person at the back of the canoe is the captain and responsible for steering. The front we call the engine room because they give the power and watch out for rocks,' smiles Neville.
Eco-Friendly River Trips
The Orange river trips are run in an eco-sensitive manner and Neville emphasises that no rubbish must be left in the wild. 'When you go to the toilet, dig a hole and afterwards burn the paper. If you don't set it alight, then in this dry climate, paper will last for many years. One final thing,' says Neville, as we finish packing our waterproof buckets. 'Put away all your watches because out on the river, time is no longer important.'
It's a steaming day as we drift off gently down the stream and before we even reach the first bend, there are already major water fights underway. Our route will take us from Provenance camp, through some of the most magnificent scenery on earth, into the Richtersveld with the take-out point 74km away at the Aussenkehr vineyards.
We quickly connect with the rhythm of the river and the hours drift swiftly by. The landscape alongside is spectacular with incredible rock formations and desolate mountains in sharp contrast to the deep blue sky. It's time for a swim so I ease myself overboard and float slowly down the river on my back.
After lunch we hear the sound of Dead Mans Rapid ahead. We negotiate it safely but one Mohawk behind hits a rock head on and turns turtle, filling quickly with water. For our first night we beach the canoes on a sandy bank and begin to set up camp. The sun starts to sink behind a hilltop and the Orange River lives up to its name. Fleecy white clouds turn a brilliant shade of pink and a lone canoe paddles peacefully by.
Orange River Wildlife
The Orange River is a bird watchers paradise with prolific sightings of Cape cormorants, goliath heron, fish eagle, kingfisher and darter. Vervet monkeys and baboons are often seen on the banks while brown hyena, bat-eared foxes and even leopards live in the mountains.
Hours of paddling builds up an appetite and every day we eat like kings. Generous portions of spaghetti bolognaise, delicious chicken stew, barbecues and tuna salad. Plus tasty treats of popcorn, banana bread and toasted cheese. The next morning we awake to leaden skies and heavy claps of thunder. A rain squall is approaching, good news for an area that only receives about ten days of rain a year.
Thick drops begin to splash down as we set off in the storm. 'Another great day in Africa!,' cries one of my fellow paddlers. I couldn't agree more. Soon the sky clears and the day begins to swelter. Ahead is Sjambok Rapid, our biggest challenge of the trip. It's all action as we paddle furiously into the current.
Small waves break over the bow and our canoe begins to take on water. We successfully negotiate the rocks but at the last second my paddling partner loses his balance, falls out and I laugh helplessly as he floats clumsily away. Later on the lazy afternoon, we round a bend and find an injured pregnant goat lying exhausted on the rocks.
A pack of dogs have attacked and chased her into the water. Neville loads her onto his canoe and with goat on boat we paddle off downstream. 'She belongs to a herder who lives a few kilometres from here so we'll drop her off,' he says, covering the goat's head with a hat. 'I just hope she doesn't give birth on the way.'
Surrounded by Untamed Wilderness
The afternoon drifts by in a haze of sunshine and water fights. Surrounded by an untamed wilderness, the green-fringed river snakes slowly through the dry land. Just a few days in nature and the modern trappings of city life seem so unnecessary. With the ban on watches imposed by Neville at the start, time has become absolutely meaningless for the past four days.
After a final feast of leg of lamb, garnished with garlic and cooked over the coals, served with sweet potato and butternut, I retire to my sleeping bag on the grass. There's no need for a tent on such a perfect night as the inky black heavens are ablaze with stars.
It's dead calm and the river is flat with only an occasional fish that breaks the surface. The night sky and majestic mountains are perfectly mirrored in the waters of the Orange and I lie awake, content, watching the reflections of stars.
By Jeremy Jowell
This is not an easy destination. The park is rugged and isolated and is subject to extreme weather conditions. There is very little water, t...